Quo Vadis?

On every signpost in Kishinev, every billboard in Belts, every poster in Edinets—in short, covering almost every inch of free public space in Moldova— are advertisements for various language schools and conversation classes. The largest company is QUO VADIS?. Their ads are everywhere, with large, haughty Latin letters that stand out against a sea of cheaply made Cyrillic flyers. Boldly, even accusatorily, these posters ask “where are you going?”, as though there were no alternatives for a Moldovan’s future other than a better life somewhere else where they can forget they are from Moldova and begin to speak English, German or French.

It should come as no surprise, therefore, that in the Jewish community I am often asked to attend and organize different English clubs and informal conversation circles. At these events I deliberately steer conversation towards Jewish topics, though inevitably questions begin to revolve around life and potential jobs in America. At one recent Hillel English Club meeting, however, I came armed with what I thought was a powerful pedagogic tool.

The song Halevai is an old Yiddish tune made popular in the mid-20^th century by Bessarabian-born celebrity cantor Moyshe Oysher. A few years ago, the song was revamped and revived by the Montreal-based klezmer band Shtreiml, in a recording which, while clearly rooted in old-time klezmer is still unmistakably modern, young, hip, and dare I say it… even cool. From an English teacher’s point of view the band’s translation is perfect— written in simple, repetitive language that is at once also humorous, engaging and idiomatically rich. For the Jewish educator, the song not only explains that all-important word “halevai”, but also provides an opportunity to discuss that optimistic yet ironic take on life that has typified much of Ashkenazic history.

The students enthusiastically sang the song and participated in the conversation that followed. When the lesson seemed to have come to an end, I asked the students where they thought the song was written. “Israel!” came the first confident reply, “Jewish songs are from Israel!” “No, he said the band was from Canada, the song must be Canadian too!” chimed in a second.

“Well…” I began diplomatically, “The song has been popular in Israel and in Canada, the States too… but where was the original written, where does the song come from?” I asked raising an eyebrow. The ensuing silence was not surprising. I waited a beat and replied simply: “Moldova”.

Moldova?!?! Their immediate reaction was shock and puzzlement. “How could something come from Moldova that was so cool and so… Jewish?” they seemed to be asking themselves. I quickly explained that Bessarabian Jewish culture was rich and dynamic, that for centuries Jews looked towards Moldova for literature, art, dance, music. And slowly in a few faces I saw a glimmer of pride.

It seemed for many in the room that they had encountered something for the first time that was both Moldovan and Jewish, something that was authentically “theirs”. I was a little surprised myself by the electricity in their response and the number of requests I received afterwards, asking for more information, more songs. It was apparent that there was a real desire in the room to take ownership of the material, to be able to say that they as Moldovan Jews have a tradition that is worth the world’s attention that they can, halevai, pass on to the next generation, wherever the future leads.

Post Script:
Shtreiml's website can be found here: http://www.shtreiml.com/
An excerpt from their rockin' rendition of Halevai is also available for download on the same site: http://www.shtreiml.com/sounds/halevai.mp3

In the meantime, however, please enjoy this also rockin, yet shmalts-filled youtube video starring Moyshe Oysher himself and the famed Sisters Barry...